Irani cafes, with their rich history and unique charm, have been a staple of Indian culture for over a century. These cafes, known for their marble-topped tables, chequered floors, and aromatic dishes, serve a delightful mix of bun maska and creamy chai. Originating in cities like Mumbai and Pune during the 18th and 19th centuries, the cafes were established by Persian immigrants fleeing hardship in Iran. Today, they are facing extinction, particularly in Hyderabad, which boasts the second-highest number of these establishments after Mumbai.
Hyderabad's connection to Irani cafes is rooted in its historical significance as a center for Iranian trade in the late 19th century. Under the rule of a Muslim Nizam, Persian culture flourished, leading to the establishment of cafes like the Niloufer, named after the Nizam's Iranian daughter-in-law. The arrival of Iranians coincided with British colonial efforts to promote tea drinking, introducing a unique style of tea preparation that incorporated cream and condensed milk. This led to the rise of a distinct Iranian chai culture that captivated people from all backgrounds.
Historically, Irani cafes served as cultural melting pots, fostering social interactions across religious and caste lines. They became iconic venues where people gathered to enjoy tea, engage in conversation, and play music on jukeboxes. According to historians, these cafes symbolized secularism in Hyderabad, as they welcomed patrons from diverse backgrounds without any religious connotations. However, this cultural legacy is now threatened as the number of cafes dwindles.
From an estimated 450 cafes two decades ago, Hyderabad now has only about 125 remaining. Jaleel Farooq Rooz, owner of The Grand Hotel, recalls the decline, noting that his cafe once served 8,000 to 9,000 cups of chai daily but now sells only 4,000. He attributes this reduction to fierce competition from fast-food chains, which have proliferated since the city's IT boom in the 1990s. These chains offer modern amenities and diverse menus, drawing customers away from traditional cafes.
Rising real estate prices have also posed significant challenges for Irani cafe owners. Many operate in rented spaces, and escalating rents have forced some to close or seek alternative careers. Additionally, inflation has driven up the cost of essential ingredients like tea and milk, which have tripled in price over the past five years. The younger generation of Iranian families is increasingly uninterested in continuing the family business, choosing instead to pursue other careers or migrate abroad.
Despite these challenges, some cafe owners strive to keep the tradition alive. Syed Mohammed Razak, who manages the Red Rose Restaurant, is committed to maintaining his family’s legacy. He has adapted his menu to include new dishes and utilizes his skills in graphic design to promote the cafe online. "Selling just chai and biscuits is neither easy nor profitable," he admits, but his passion for preserving the Irani cafe culture drives him forward.
Loyal customers, many of whom have frequented these cafes for generations, continue to cherish their experiences. Regulars at The Grand Hotel express their love for the unique taste of Irani chai, emphasizing that there is nothing quite like it. As these cafes face extinction, the rich heritage and cultural significance they represent hang in the balance, leaving a question mark over the future of this beloved culinary tradition in India.
