In the bustling streets of Delhi, a culinary masterpiece was born in the 1950s that would go on to captivate taste buds around the world. Butter chicken, or murgh makhani as it is traditionally known, emerged from the kitchens of Moti Mahal restaurant in the Daryaganj neighborhood of Old Delhi. This rich, creamy curry has since become a symbol of Indian cuisine, beloved by food enthusiasts across the globe.
The creation of butter chicken is credited to Kundan Lal Jaggi and Kundan Lal Gujral, two Punjabi refugees from Peshawar who settled in Delhi after the Partition of India. Legend has it that the dish was born out of necessity and creativity when leftover tandoori chicken was mixed with a tomato gravy rich in butter, makhan. This happy accident would go on to become one of India's most famous culinary exports.
The preparation of butter chicken is a labor of love that begins with marinating chicken pieces for several hours in a mixture of lemon juice, yogurt, Kashmiri red chili, salt, garam masala, ginger paste, and garlic paste. Traditionally, the marinated chicken is cooked in a tandoor, a clay oven that imparts a distinct smoky flavor to the meat. However, modern adaptations allow for grilling, oven-roasting, or pan-frying the chicken to achieve similar results.
The heart of butter chicken lies in its velvety smooth sauce. This tomato-based gravy is simmered with garlic and ginger until it reaches a luxurious consistency. The sauce is then sieved to ensure a silky texture. While recipes may vary, common spices used in the sauce include cardamom, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, pepper, garam masala, and fenugreek (kasuri methi). Some variations incorporate cashew paste as a thickener, adding to the sauce's rich texture.
As butter chicken gained popularity, it spread beyond the borders of India, finding its way onto menus around the world. In 1975, the English phrase "butter chicken curry" first appeared in print as a specialty at Gaylord Indian restaurant in Manhattan. Since then, the dish has been adapted to suit local tastes and preferences in various countries. In Toronto and the Caribbean, it can be found as a filling in pizza, poutine, wraps, roti, or rolls. Meanwhile, in Australia and New Zealand, butter chicken has found a new home as a savory pie filling.
The global appeal of butter chicken has led to some misconceptions about its origins. Due to its popularity outside of India, it is sometimes mistakenly believed to be of Western origin, similar to chicken tikka masala. However, butter chicken remains firmly rooted in Indian culinary tradition, representing the innovation and creativity of Delhi's post-partition era.
The legacy of butter chicken continues to evolve, with the dish sparking both culinary innovations and legal disputes. In 2024, the families of Gujral and Jaggi, who run rival restaurants, became embroiled in a legal battle over the credit for inventing the dish. This dispute underscores the cultural and economic significance that butter chicken has achieved over the decades. Despite these controversies, butter chicken remains a beloved dish, continuing to bring the flavors of India to dinner tables around the world, bridging cultures through the universal language of good food.
